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How to Downsize Your Home.


Moving to a smaller place? Over time, we tend to accumulate stuff - lots of stuff. We have drawers full of stuff, gifts that we have never used (and never will), furniture we don’t really need but keep “just in case” and items that we’ve had for years may be difficult to part with due to nothing more than familiarity while serving no functional purpose.

Now is the time to get rid of excess baggage (literally!) and pare down to the essentials.



Steps.

1. Assess your actual needs. Someday, you may take up exercising, but the treadmill/Stairmaster/Bowflex has been gathering dust for some time. Wouldn’t a good pair of walking/running shoes be more useful and take up significantly less space? Does anyone actually sit in the chair in the corner? How often do you eat at the table? When was the last time you used your stereo? Deciding what you really need requires a good long look at how you live your life daily and prioritizing the activities and items that are already a part of your actual lifestyle--not those activities or items that you want to be part of your lifestyle, but haven't gotten around to yet.

Take a walk through your house or apartment and evaluate everything you come across (furniture, books, food, etc.). Ask yourself if you've used it in the past year and, if so, how often? Be honest with yourself. If you think you could live well without it, out the door it should go. Make a note of it.

Consider that most of the stuff people keep without using is a tribute to an unmet goal. The most common example is probably exercise machines that we always say we'll use, but don't. Then there are those books we intend to read, that table we eventually want to have dinners and brunches on, etc. We keep things around "just in case", or hoping that their presence will eventually encourage us to use them. But let's be realistic, if seeing that treadmill get a coating of dust hasn't inspired you yet, what makes you think it ever will? Make room for the things you'll actually use.

For stuff that you really have a hard time getting rid of, make this agreement with yourself: Put the items in storage. If you don't need or use them within 6 months, give, sell or throw them away.

2. Go through your home, every cabinet, shelf and closet should be cleared. Only put back the things you couldn't live well without. That means that if you use a whisk every other day it stays but the melon-baller when you don't even like melon... Out it goes. Put these items in boxes, crates or bags in a garage or other storage area

3. Measure your furniture. You will need to know how your furniture will (or won’t) fit into your new space - particularly large items such as your sofa and your bed - so measure everything.

You will also need to get the room measurements of your new space. Ask if you can take measurements or if there is a floor plan available to you. Don’t forget about the location of doors and windows as this will be a factor in furniture placement. Once you have these measurements, make a floor plan using your furniture’s measurements. Try using Better Homes and Gardens’ Arrange-A-Room online software to simplify the process (requires registration but is free). This will give you a much better idea on what you can keep and what will have to go.

4. Assess your new storage areas. How many times have you moved into a new place only to realize - too late - that you have overestimated the amount of storage space? While you’re getting room measurements, make sure to properly assess the storage situation you’ll be inheriting. Will you have fewer kitchen cupboards? How many closets will you have? If you are moving into an apartment, does it have a storage locker and, if so, what are its dimensions? Assessing exactly how much of the new space is dedicated to storage will give you and idea of the volume of items you need to dispose of before moving in. Don’t forget hidden storage areas you currently use in your old place. If you place a lot of items above the kitchen cabinets in your current home, for example, find out if the cupboards in the new place have storage in that area as well.

5. Ransack your old storage areas. Go through your storage areas first (attics, basements, closets, etc). You will be surprised to find out what you’ve put away instead of gotten rid of. If you’re like most of us, you will find boxes of items that haven’t seen the light of day for years and there’s a reason for this: you don’t need them. Get rid of them at once. Hesitation will only melt your resolve.

Don’t forget to go through your bathroom cabinets, kitchen and “junk” drawers. We have a tendency to accumulate unnecessary items in these places. Get rid of empty bottles, balls of twine, expired medicines and beauty products, and your collection of plastic margarine containers. Be brutal.

How you dispose of these unnecessary items will depend on how much energy and/or time you have. The easiest thing to do is to load them up on a truck and drop them off at the nearest thrift shop.

Join a Freecycle group to give stuff away (www.freecycle.org)

If you live in an apartment building or townhouse complex, notice boards and drop off areas for giving unwanted items to neighbours is sometimes provided.

Call up your friends and relatives and see what they need. You may be able to enlist their help in the move for a promised dresser/bed/armchair!

6. Sell your stuff. If you’re in need of a pre-move windfall, try these.

For a large number of items, have a yard sale (or a series of yard sales), or if you have a lot to sell quickly, consider a service to take care of it for you (e.g., Google liquidation estate content sales).

If you have time before the move, utilize sites such as Craigslist and eBay to sell off the best stuff. You’ll likely get more money for your items this way but it is more time consuming.

Craigslist is a good avenue for selling larger items such as furniture, appliances and home décor items to people living in your area. If you have the means, offering delivery will often produce quicker sales.

eBay is a good venue for selling collectible items such as old albums, comic books, and figurines. Make sure to take good quality photos of the items and offer good descriptions. Remember that you are a salesperson. Sell those products!

Used designer clothing can be resold in consignment shops. These stores can be found in your local business directory. Be sure to shop around. Some stores offer better rates than others.

7. Get organized. Before you move into your new place, it’s a good time to work out some storage solutions for your stored items. You can do this as you pack. Place your storage items in decorative storage boxes that can be moved and placed in the new storage areas without much effort. Plastic bins are great for moving and storing, come in many sizes, are stackable, and the see-through ones make finding what you need a snap. The measurements taken of the new storage areas will ensure a good fit. Come moving day, these boxes will be much easier to deal with.

Label everything by room. Don’t think that you will remember big television box is actually full of pots and pans. You won’t.

8. Move large items first. Move your furniture into your new home first. You will have the most energy for this task at the beginning of the move and it will also give you a better indication of where the smaller things will go. Do not merely fill a room with furniture with the idea of sorting it all out later. There is nothing worse than trying to navigate through small rooms littered with boxes and stacks of furniture after a day of moving.Place furniture in the rooms as you go, according to the plan you made earlier. If you have done your homework correctly, your big items should fit in nicely and already give you a sense of home (and a place to sit while taking a break from all of your hard work!)

9. Put away storage items. Contained items that are meant for storage can be placed directly in their allotted spaces where they will be out of the way. By putting these things away as you move in, you’ll be saving yourself the stress of trying to maneuver through tiny, packed rooms during the next few days.

10. Organize boxed items. Your labeled boxes can now be put into their respective rooms and the unpacking can begin. Begin with the bathroom, as that is the room most likely to be needed immediately. If you have only kept the basics, unpacking this room will be a breeze.

11. Organize your space as you unpack. Utilize closet and cupboard storage solutions as you unpack. This way, more can be stored in these tight spaces and you will be setting a precedent for how your new, smaller space will be used. Don’t fall back into lazy habits or your downsized place will get you down.

12. Relax and enjoy! You have now entered the realm of living small. You no longer have to worry about the financial burden or time draining tasks of maintaining a home too big for your needs and you have simplified your life by surrounding yourself with only those things that are most important to you. Rejoice!



Question : I need to hire a helper to do my bending and lifting as I sort through my stuff. I have young friends. How much an hour should I pay?

Answer : $10 to 15.00 per hour is good if you don't plan on feeding them. That said, depending on how good of friends they are, you can give them a flat $20, $40 or $60 dollars for the day, depending on how long you have them work.

Question : My mother is moving to assisted living. I'm thinking of hiring a professional downsizer. How much should I expect to spend for someone to manage all of the above?

Answer : Hiring a professional to oversee a move may cost $2,000-$5,000 depending on the size of her home and the size of her assisted living space. If she is a hoarder, triple or quadruple the estimate.

Question : How do I get rid of knick knacks that have been in my family for years without breaking my heart?

Answer : Donate them to charities and tell yourself that they can give joy to others. You are blessing other people by giving up what you no longer need.

Question : With my husbands health I am doing everything and still working full time. I could use someone to come in and help clean good, than keep up with it until I retire. Is there such a person?

Answer : Yes, you could hire a maid or a part-time student to help. You could also ask your neighbors, in-laws, friends or someone else you trust to help you out. There are lots of resources.

Question : I'm trying to start downsizing. How do I start?

Answer : Choose a room and start sorting, determining which items to keep and which to discard.



Tips.

If you find yourself in economic straits, downsize as quickly as possible. The longer you try to hang on to a lifestyle you can no longer support, the deeper the pit you’ll be digging. Take your cue from business strategy - restructure.

Once you're in your new small space, enact a rule to keep your stuff from accumulating: Every time something comes in, something has to go. The item(s) you get rid of should be about the same size as the one you brought in.

Use your computer to replace other electronics taking up space, for example, Do you really need a DVD player, CD player, and a DVR, When you have a computer with a DVD-RW drive. (Plays and records DVDs/CDs.)

Make use of "negative space", especially with small and sentimental things. For example, fill Grandma's old vase with the sea-shells you collected together (rather than in a box somewhere). Store Dad's casino-chip collection in his favorite beer-stein. Fill an heirloom milk-can with Ziploc bags full of pictures that you haven't decided what to do with. De-cluttering is important, but so is being efficient with the stuff that you DO keep!

Avoid adding storage space. The more storage space, the more you are likely to clutter. In fact, attempt to minimize storage space.

Warnings.

Do not flush or throw into the trash any expired/unwanted medicines. They will contaminate the water supply. Any drugstore will dispose of these items responsibly, free of charge. You can also see if your city has a hazardous waste disposal facility.

Don't throw away anything valuable, If something might be worth a good amount of money, sell it.


11:29 AM


How to Start Living in a Tiny House.


Living in a house smaller than some people's walk-in closets may not be for everyone, but those who are able to do so reap many benefits for themselves and for the world around them. Here are some steps that may help you with choosing the best type of small house for you and how to simplify your life so living in a small house is enjoyable and not confining.



Steps.

1. Do your research. There are many types of tiny homes, from as small as 9 square feet up to 837 square feet. Look at the designs, which range from traditional to ultra-modern in design. Some incorporate off-the-grid designs like solar/wind power, rainwater collection, and composting toilets.

2. Decide what you need from your dwelling and what you want from your dwelling. Most people need a comfortable, dry, quiet place to sleep; a clean place to perform personal hygiene (toilet, shower); a comfortable place to sit or lie down during the day; a place to store, prepare, and eat food for the day. You may want other creature comforts such as long-term refrigerated food storage, a clothes washer and dryer etc. But think of combining these appliances in one machine. Do you really need a dryer or could you dry your clothes outside ?

3. Look at the benefits of "living small:" less space to clean; less pack-ratting of unneeded clothes, broken appliances, etc.; lower energy bills and a greener environmental footprint; fresher food that is purchased, caught, or harvested on a more daily basis; more time available for outdoor activities and entertaining; no need to sell your home when you relocate (if your tiny home is towable).

4. Realize that small houses cost more per square feet than large houses. Designing for smaller areas is more complex, as items such as built-in furniture have to be custom made to take advantage of all the space. Compact appliances sometimes cost much more than full sized appliances. If you are designing or building your own home on a trailer bed, you need to take plumbing (grey water and black water storage and disposal) into consideration.

5. Decide if you will build your own home from plans, or if you will buy an already made home new, or if you will buy a used home. There are also "kits" available which come with all or most of the supplies for building the house, along with instructions. The cheapest option for small living is to buy a well-maintained used RV or travel trailer. Craigslist usually will have several listings under $5000. You get the advantage of having something already designed and constructed, but you have the disadvantage of not being able to fully customize your home to your needs and wants.

6. Pare down your belongings: we spend about 80% of our time wearing 20% of the clothes we own, so by getting rid of most of that wasted 80%, your life becomes immediately simpler.less laundry and less indecision about what to wear that day. Instead of having 3 TVs, 2 computers, a VCR, DVD, Blu-Ray, and 3 different game stations, reduce to one computer--transfer your movies to a hard drive and a flat screen monitor can double as a TV. A laptop with a TV tuner is even more energy efficient.

7. Be creative about storage and multi-function furniture: a bed platform could have clothing storage drawers underneath. If you make a built-in sofa (without a bed) you can use the space underneath to store lots of things. A table can be made with shelves for storage underneath the table surface. Or you could design a table that folds out of the wall, then folds up and down to become a bed. Use broad, deep shelves (including built-in) and drawers, and wall and ceiling mounted items, to minimize the proportion of wasted space above, below, and around the edges of items (due to packing geometry or falling-off-the-edge risk). Consider metal furniture to reduce the amount of space consumed by the furniture itself.



Question : Is it true that in most states people not allowed to live in homes on wheels?

Answer : In North Carolina, as in most states, I think, the prohibition against tiny homes on wheels is county by county rather than state law. We know of at least two counties in Western North Carolina that are tiny-home-friendly, and two others that are not. It takes a lot of research to find a welcoming tiny home community in any state.

Question : Is a tiny house practical for a musician who plays a piano and flute and owns a lot of books and music?

Answer : Your walls will be your best friend for storing your books and for the acoustics of your flute. Although it may be difficult to fit a piano in a tiny house, they make small electric pianos that have very good sound.

Question : How do I locate a tiny homes in my area?

Answer : Your local realtors should have listings. The movement has gained so much momentum, so it shouldn't be hard to find one. Texas, Tennessee, Colorado, Washington state and Oregon have the most tiny homes for sale. Many states sell kits to build them yourself or sell the blueprint/plans for you to base your home off of.

Question : How does it work if I want to get internet in a tiny house?

Answer : It works the same as getting it anywhere else, as long as your house is electrically sound and accessible.



Tips.

To "test drive" tiny house living, you can rent an RV for a limited period of time (like six months) and get a feel for what you need - and don't need - in terms of space.

Build/design for your needs and prioritize your wants and add them one-by-one to the house until it is the perfect balance of desires and space.

Don't try to cram too much stuff into your small home--it will make it appear very cluttered. This goes double for furniture: a full size sofa, a king size bed, a 6-person dinette and a large Club chair or reclining lounger won't leave a lot of space for you to walk around. An armless sofa, double-size or queen-size bed in a loft, and a folding table with 2 folding chairs that would allow you to seat 4 for dinner (using the sofa as seating) is more reasonable.

Warnings.

Not everyone will share your enthusiasm for living small. They will think you to be a little crazy to live full-time in something that they would consider living in only for one or two weeks per year at the most. If you are dating or married, be sure you and your partner are in full agreement on the subject of small living. If you are planning to have kids, be sure you know what will happen to your house at that time: will you build another small house and connect them together, or will you build a brand new house?

Be careful about air quality in a tiny house. Particularly if the house is constructed very 'tight' against air infiltration for energy savings reasons, and also particularly if more than one person is living there, or with pets. In a larger home, the larger volume of air inside the home is protection against a build-up of CO2 in the air that the occupants are breathing. With a smaller volume of air, and if the home is very tightly constructed, mechanical ventilation may be needed to replenish fresh air and avoid headaches or other symptoms of poor air quality. Of course, during good weather you can just open a window. During the colder months, air-quality can suffer.

There is a substantial investment involved in building or buying a tiny home. Be sure you are physically and mentally prepared.

Check local zoning codes for restrictions on minimum room size and RV/manufactured housing on residential lots. Many codes restrict houses to at least one room of 120 square feet and other rooms of a minimum 70 square feet. Some require the house to be built on a minimum percentage of the lot. You may be able to get exceptions granted to you, but be aware that many communities see small houses as something that depresses property values. Other communities see well-built smaller houses as something good for their infrastructure--less strain on the electric, sewer, and fresh water systems--and welcome them.

Used RVs and manufactured housing are prone to water leaks, so check for any if you choose to buy something pre-owned. If you design or build your own house, be sure to pay attention for potentially damaging water leaks.


1:11 PM


How to Build an Eco House on a Budget.

Building an Eco house will reduce the size of your bills and help the environment. But the problem is you only have a budget. You can't go over or you will fall behind on your bills. Don't worry all you need is a positive attitude.



Steps.

1. Start a vegetable gardern. Using this will help you by having fresher food, less petrol going up and down for fruits and vegetables and saves you some money.

2. Purchase solar equipment. Solar equipment is useful to save costs on electricity and shrinking your bills. This includes solar chargers, solar phone chargers, solar night lights and many more. Every small thing you purchase that doesn't use electricity save you money.

3. Swap all your light bulbs for LED lights. LED lights use almost half the wattage a normal light bulb will use. This will also save you money and looks much better. LED light bulbs come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

4. Reduce the need for using elements. This includes dryers, ovens, kettles and many more. Reduce by using a clothes line instead of a dryer. Purchase energy efficient products.

5. Stop the need of using lights during the day. Open all your blinds to get natural light through the house. At night use solar night lights in your rooms and only have a TV on.

6. Swap your plasma TV for an LED TV. Yes this does affect your budget but by now you should have enough money you save from the previous steps. Plasma TVs burn so much electricity and LED burns less. What do you want? Pay more or less?

7. Once you have enough money, read the next article create an eco friendly house and build an eco friendly house.



Tips.

Click on the links for more information and go through the sites to purchase solar equipment.




12:28 PM


How to Build a Straw Bale House.


Building a straw bale and plaster house is a low-cost and environmentally friendly way to create a home. This guide covers the materials and methods you might use to build a straw bale house, a house that can last hundreds of years, is energy efficient and is cheap to maintain. For simplicity, this article will not include instruction on the installation of services such as natural gas, electricity or water and sewer: It covers only the details about how to build the shell.



Steps.

1. Make a plan. How big? How many rooms? What services do you want? Where are the windows and doors going to go ?

Draw up the floor plan. On your diagram, you should roughly sketch the room layouts and locate the drain lines precisely (for concrete slab) where the shower, bathtub and toilet drain connections will be (wood floors with a crawl space allows easier changes of such locations).

Image titled Build a Straw Bale House Step 1Bullet1

Each section of the exterior wall should be a multiple of the standard bale length you plan to use. This will allow you to minimize the number of bales that you cut and will also minimize waste.

2. Decide what type of base you will use to support the floor of the first story. Typical choices are a concrete pad or a timber base consisting of a double outside band with center beam(s) supported by columns and connected by floor joists on 16" centers. If you opt for the traditional wood frame, check your local building code for the dimensions of each frame element.

3. Prepare the foundation footings to be below the frost line in cold climates, and floor to be level, on an attractive slope or level ground (easier). Check your local building codes for the size and composition of exterior wall foundation. Fresh water plumbing, electrical wiring and natural gas pipes will be added above the slab, under timber floors, in walls or above ceilings.

4. Build a frame of timber or metal. The frame transfers the load of the roof down on to the foundation and should be strong enough for this purpose. You can cut in 1X4 inch bracing "straps" (set in the thickness of the 1X4) into timber outer stud-walls (posts or pillars) diagonally from the corners near the floor into the top plate -- or 2X4 inch diagonal braces nailed or bolted between vertical elements -- to prevent lateral movement within the frame, and the base of each upright timber should be anchored well to the foundation. Cables may be stretched through the bales of the structure, if desired for stability, to share stresses of possible bulging or shifting of bales.

5. Stay dry during construction by putting the roof on before going any further. Put the roof on before adding the wall bales because you don't want your bales to get soaked with rain, snow or ice.

6. Make straw bale walls, not using hay, but using straw. Straw is from harvested grain stalks (never use bales of grass). These need to remain dry, less than 20% moisture content, and tightly bound to prevent moist air (including fog) getting in before plastering. Both factors are important to prevent the rotting of the bales after construction. To build the wall, you start by sharpening some staves (inch thick willow stems) and then securing them vertically in the wood or concrete base (you will need to drill a hole, or perhaps poke them in when the concrete is still wet). Bales should then be further reinforced with "U" shaped willow stems that must be bent while the stems are green (or use another kind of straight staves, and bendable pipe for U shape ones).

Make U shaped staves: Select a one meter willow stave and mark the stave at 33 centimeter (13 in) from each end, take a big hammer and bash the green stave on these marks until the fibers of the wood are mashed, split and softened. These bashed areas are then bendable; bend the stave into U shape and then get to work. Each layer (or course) of bales are stacked up and pinning them until you have reached your desired height, during this process staves of willow should be driven down through alternate bails to fix it to the bail below. The U staves are use to attach between lined up blocks. This is especially important on the top course. When the desired height has been reached some kind of strap can be placed around the entire wall (top to bottom) to add further stability and strength, but not stressed extremely tightly.

7. Plaster the walls. There are many types of soft plaster that can be used, some based on formulations of locally available materials. Choose the best one by balancing availability, cost and effectiveness for your climate. Apply with traditional plastering tools for a smooth finish or with your hands for a rustic finish. Make sure, though to cover every last bit of exposed straw: None should be showing, unplastered. Otherwise fire is more easily started, and dampness or vermin can get in.

8. Put in the windows and doors. You should have left holes for these, bridged with lintels (horizontal headers which support the weight above each opening for a window or door). Install the window and door casings, securing them to framing posts or to plastered walls outfitted with staves.

9. Apply breathable paints. Look for mineral silicate paint that is free of artificial resins, petroleum solvents and biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant. Applying breathable paints is no different than applying conventional paints, although you need to follow manufacturer guidance as products do vary somewhat. To prepare for painting, make sure that the walls are sound, clean, dry, and free of oils.

The exterior should be painted with breathable paint so that moisture can escape the walls. Paints are rated in Sd values: Paints with high Sd values have are detrimental to the underlying surface, as they do not allow it to breathe and dry out. Most non breathable paints will not disclose an Sd value as they can be much higher than 3. Paints with an Sd value less than 0.1 offer adequate breathability for most straw bale/plaster applications.



Question : Will a straw house be warm enough for New Brunswick, Canada?

Answer : A good straw bale home is significantly warmer than conventional building methods, because a well-packed bale is rated at R30 - R35 minimum, or considerably more. Today, insulated homes usually have R-20 in the walls, and many old homes have R-14 for insulation or considerably less. The earliest mobile homes had R-8 or less.

Question : Is it safe for South African (Cape Town) weather?

Answer : Use the straw as a insulator. On the outside have either wood or brick, since the rain will cause the straw to rot.



Tips.

The popularity of straw bale construction is growing in the US. Search online, typing in "Appendix M Straw-Bale Structures" for some more detailed info, from US standards.

A 23-inch-thick straw-bale wall has an R-value of about R-33. And, since virtually all straw-bale walls are plastered on both sides, these walls are relatively airtight.

There are many articles online about designing straw bale building, construction, and techniques that you will enjoy and should find useful. You can sign up for a "Free Straw Bale E-Course". Watch "Introductory Straw Bale Video" and read FAQs. Visit various straw bale photo galleries.

Merrily throwing clay onto the bale walls seems like so much fun, you may want to build a starter house to vent your feelings about the housing market prices and collapse thing.

Warnings.

Make sure you follow health and safety guidelines and regulations to avoid hurting yourself, helpers or children, etc..

Always make sure to choose a location with the materials (where clay and willow stems are available) and where such building is legal.

This knowledge is not definitive, it is just here as guidance; always get a second opinion.

Always consult a structural engineer where building permits are required, before building anything. Hay bale construction is often permitted in rural areas, but not in the usual towns and cities.

Permits: Get the relevant planning and the required building permits.

Things You'll Need.

Enough straw bales.

Foundations materials, wooden floor (option).

Lumber timbers, interior wall boards.

Nails, screws, bolts.

Willow staves (or other stakes and bendable pipe).

Roofing materials.

Lime plaster, (clay "mud" optional where desired and permitted).

Mineral silicate paint (no artificial resins, no petroleum solvents, no biocides (poisons) but is weather and UV resistant).

Tools: digging tools for foundation footings, to sharpen the staves; a saw to cut timbers to length, a bow saw for trimming bails; a mallet and hammer, plastering tools


12:29 PM


How to Build an Underground House.


Have you ever wanted to have a house completely hidden from the view of other people? Do you like caves or the deep smell of moist earth? Do you fear the imminent apocalypse? Well, you might want to build an underground house. It will take some time and effort, but if you’re wiling to commit to the project you could have your own underground shelter sooner rather than later.



Method 1 Preparing to Build Your Underground House.

1. Check your zoning laws. You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.

2. Get permission from the state to dig. More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.

3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment. Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.

4. Find someone willing to help you. This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.

5. Find a suitable location. Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.

Generally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.

You also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.



Method 2 Designing Your Underground House.

1. Develop detailed structural plans. Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,

2. Design your house. As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. [3] Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well.

If you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.

A reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.

3. Include an entrance and exit in your design. This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want.

If you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.



Method 3 Planning the Excavation.

1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole. Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.

You also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.

2. Investigate the conditions of your soil. It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.

3. Consider a cut and cover strategy. Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.

4. Save the excess soil. This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.



Method 4 Constructing Your Underground House.

1. Build a perimeter wood frame. You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.

2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation. Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.

3. Create stem walls. Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.

4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls. You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house.  It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.

5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want. You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.

6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling. You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.

7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house. Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.

8. Consider insulation. Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.



Method 5 Buying a Premade Underground House.

1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want. Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money.  Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.

2. Purchase your underground house. In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.

3. Obtain approval to dig on your property. You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.

4. Have your underground house delivered and installed. This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.



Question : How much money do I need to build an underground house?

Answer : It depends on how big the house is and what materials you use, but probably $10K or more.

Question : Is it possible to use this as a super secret lab? Do I need to buy all the super scientific stuff myself?

Answer : You could do that, or anything else your imagination suggests. And, yes, you would probably have to buy everything.

Question : How do you get underground? And put big objects down there without digging up the house?

Answer : Usually, underground houses are built by digging out space on the side of a hill. The house is constructed then the dirt is moved back on top of the structure. One side of the house is usually left exposed.

Question : What would happen if I built an underground house using wood instead of concrete and bricks in a rocky soil? Will it fall down on me?

Answer : While the type of soil would affect the distribution and absorption, all types will bring rain or surface water down to the building materials. Wood, when exposed to water, weakens and rots; it is an essential part of its natural breakdown process. So, yes, it would come apart and quickly, likely falling down on itself in the process.

Question : Instead of either ladder or stairway how about an elevator?

Answer : While elevators can go into basements, they have large foundational and protection requirements. They take a lot of material, space and need plenty of protection around them, such as a building. They are too big for most, and require so much building around them - for the above-ground entry - that it defies what most people picture for an underground house. Besides, they're expensive to build, run and maintain, too.

Question : Should I have a normal house on top?

Answer : There are pros and cons: a normal house distracts from an underground one, and gives you the advantages of both types. However, an above-ground house is not hidden, and may not fit into your plans (such as defense or a location not being found). It is about your preferences.



Tips.

When constructing any trench or hole angle the walls back slightly, so the top is larger than the floor. this lets gravity help you hold back the pressure of the dirt walls.

A phone in case of emergency may be useful.

Before adding the roof always brace the sides of the trench and hole to prevent cave ins.

Ventilation holes are a very good thing to build maybe behind a plant so your underground house will stay secret.

When you brace the walls, drive the stick or pole into the floor, pushing against the wall so that in order for you to push your finger behind the board, you would hurt yourself, or at least get really dirty fingernails.

Brace all walls and never dig deep without a friend near you and above ground.

Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.

Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.

Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.

Do not try to build an underground home if you live below sea level. You probably will hit water.
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